THE BERGEN TRAIN-- ACROSS THE ROOF OF NORWAY

Readers:  another post in our activity.  To read the adventure in the order of the events click HERE for the Day by Day Trip Report. To see all the photos go HERE

"This is Norway"

We hear this from hotel clerks, gift shop clerks, Norwegians we meet:  "This is Norway."  Translation:  It's expensive here.  We've paid too much for hot dogs and too much for a diet coke and too much for a bottle of water.  But "this is Norway."

Dinner on 7/2 was 'en suite.'  Room service was not an option due to expense and we'd walked ourselves silly on the city tour, so we spread out the goodies we had carried from home. We added some items left over from the lunch we'd made from the breakfast buffet and had ourselves a nice little picnic.  

Trains and Boats and Busses and Trains and Automobiles

Consistently hailed as one of the world’s most scenic railway journeys, Norway’s Bergensbanen (Bergen Railway) certainly doesn’t disappoint. Over the roughly seven hour trip, we have experienced some of Norway’s most majestic landscapes. From the awe-inspiring fjords to the mountainous terrain blanketed in snow, the train journey from Oslo to Bergen is one that everyone should experience in their lifetime. Do you see that we said SEVEN HOURS well....after almost 12 HOURS we stumbled into Bergen.

"Norway in a Nutshell" is full of nuts, and trains and boats and busses and more trains!!!

At 8:00am this morning, we hit Oslo Sentral Station to follow the trail across Norway to the mighty fjords.......through long dark tunnels and bridges and past loads of places that we were sure the trolls lived.

Thanks to Consul Wendleborg we knew which track and coach to pop on. We were well prepared. AND please take note...this is the very first time Beth has EVER EVER EVER put a back pack on her back! She whined and complained all the while!

We were on our way in a flash, loaded with wifi, great lunch prepared by us from the hotel. Ready for the great adventure.

The scenery was spectacular and became more and more outstanding as we headed into the fjords. At Myrdal, we changed trains and headed to Flam. Up, up, up, up, up we went with the topography changing becoming more and more barren and beautiful as the snow covered mountains got closer. 

It became colder and colder. The fjord water became floating ice. The cloud cover went from fluffy to gray and leaden and heavy.  From 20 degrees Celsius it dropped to 8 degrees C. Everyone was digging out their jackets, gloves and hats. 
By the time we climbed up to Flam, it was sleeting, bleak, gray and dreary and stunningly beautiful.

Once in Flam, we hopped another train and headed down the mountains, passing beautiful waterfalls, deep fiords, small villages and breathtaking scenery.  We saw many hikers, and found these bikes obviously used on sunny days as the weather warms.

                      We were happy to be safe and sound and warm on board the train.

Fortunately Becky found a porter service that was able to take our bags from Olso to Bergen so we did not have to lug the suitcases as well as a back pak. We were sure we would have a total collapse. Much better to sit back and enjoy the ride...

The steep decent from Flan allowed us to view amazing scenery with waterfalls and rivers  exploding with the winter snow melt.

Once down into the fjords, we boarded a small car ferry and had a two hour ride down a UNESCO fjord. Breathtaking in its beauty.

When the ferry docked us after the wonderful viewing, we boarded a bus to Voss. We drove down winding little roads to the bottom of the valley and back up again. Again, more and more beautiful views.

Once in Voss we boarded another train heading two hours toward Bergen. As you can imagine, we were totally exhausted by this time and took naps as we left the fjords and headed toward the city. A taxi to the hotel....showers, en suite eating and hopping into bed. TIRED TIRED TIRED and overwhelmed by the beauty we enjoyed all day!

Ski jumps! If you recall we visited the famous Olso ski jump on the city view. On the trains today we saw many ski jumps in the forests as we went by. It could be that Norwegians were not only born on ski's but were meant to fly. this short story below is from my friend Gene (a Swede, but trustworthy). 

A story re Norway: two ski jumpers stole a small fishing boat during the Nazi occupation and rowed across the North Sea to Great Briton. From there they were transported to the US where they ended up in St. Paul, Minn. to make a public appearance at the annual Winter Carnival ski jump. My dad, a carnival official was assigned to see to their care while in town. They both made several jumps, two each in competition..They were true hero's of the war and traveled through much of the US promoting War Bond sales.

Tomorrow, Fourth of July!!!!! Have the best of celebrations of our country's expression of Freedom and Independence. We brought our shirts and celebratory accoutrements which we will wear proudly.

OSLO CITY TOUR

Readers:  another post in our activity.  To read the adventure in the order of the events click HERE for the Day by Day Trip Report. To see all the photos go HERE

Vikings await . . . 

Oslo is the smallest of European Capitals but it has its fair share of sidewalks, museums, and notable structures.

Today was the Oslo City Tour, a 5-hour bus (on and off) tour of highlights of the City and surrounds.  We like the city tours.  City tours anchor the traveler in the spaces and directions; they show off the best of the city; they give hints about sights you'd like to explore in more detail.

Oslo Clarion Royal Christiania Hotel









Oslo City Hall


But first we had to find the gathering place, where the tour begins.  We'd had hints and pointings from Tore (Consul to the Seychelles) but this morning we were on our own.  We knew we had to get to City Hall and we knew that City Hall is off the main drag -- Karl Johans Gate (gate = street.)  We found our way to KJG and walked and strolled, doing a bit of window shopping on the "pedestrian" street.   "Pedestrian" street means no cars, but at 9 am it still translates into "delivery trucks allowed."  We dodged a few.

Corners and cut-throughs, a park and some close calls with a bus or two.  A stroll past the wharf and some 'discussion' about the building we very much wanted to be City Hall. Using time-honored navigation, we decided the west side was opposite the rising of the morning sun.  Sheer brilliance, don't you think?

An English-speaking bus driver confirmed the location when we finally arrived.  And within 15 minutes our bus had arrived, one of many coming and going from that "west side of City Hall' location.  (Factoid:  we learned at the Fram museum that the plaza is named for one of Norway's finest polar explorers.)

After the ride around down town;

"On the left side" and "on the right side" we saw:

Opera House

Parliament

The Grand Hotel

Summer home of the Royal Family

Farm belonging to the Royal Family (royal cows, royal goats and  royal horses).

Old Oslo, was called Christiania til 1925, which was rebuilt after a fire, in the 16th century.

The Sculpture park was very moving. 

Gustav Vigenland sculpture park, an homage to man/woman relationships and child/parent relationships, all by the sculptor.

From the park, we drove up to the Hollmenkollen, a giant ski jump which was built for the 1952 Olympics and rebuilt many times. It is very beautiful and made my head swim just to look at it. Wait until you see the photos...you will want to turn and run!!! 

We had the privilege to see folks doing "zip line" across the slope. Most of their skiing is "cross country" as they don't have high mountains. Within 30 minutes of Oslo there  27,000m of groomed trails. It is said that Norwegians are born with ski's on their feet.

The tour ended with visits to three fabulous museums:  The Viking Museum; The Fram Museum, and the Kon Tiki museum. We would return to any of them for a longer visit and in-depth examination of facts and relics.  Fascinating art forms from the Vikings and the courage and the endurance demonstrated by all Polar explorers. 

Kon Tiki 

We ate lunch along the way, filling ourselves with treats we'd packed from the fabulous breakfaxt buffet. 

Breakfast: Pepper herring, fish pudding, pickled herring

orange marmalade, fried rice, boiled egg

Lunch: packed from breakfast buffett

Expensive food remains a theme, well, truthfully expensive everything is a better whay to characterize the theme.  Fridge magnets are $8.00 US.  Ouch!

Back at the hotel we took care of some logistics -- having our big bags portered to Bergen so we don't have to haul them.  Then a trip to scope out the track from where we think our train is departing.

We've organized baggage and photos and reviewed our day and checked weather for tomorrow.  NExt stop:  bed and a book.  we are both reading "Meet Me in Malmo" (which takes place in Sweden but still...)

MIXING CULTURES IN OSLO

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To see all the photos go HERE

Consuls Conferencing

It was soooo exciting heading out of SeaTac to Reykjavik June 30. The plane is full...Most everyone is tall, very blond and delightful to talk to.

A quick less than 7 hour flight with a full plane to Reykjavik and a 30 minute change of planes and we are off to Oslo!!! 

As we arrive in Oslo, what to my wandering eyes should appear!!! A beautiful Boeing Dreamliner parked right next to us! Norwegian Air.

Here we are in OSLO!!  Holy cow! lugging the luggage around the cobblestone streets was NOT fun! Even though the trainstation/bus station was close...NOT close enough. I considered a "just like in a movie" tossing out unnecessary items as I trudged down the street!

The hotel; Clarion Royal Christiania was built for the 1952 Olympics and it appears they might have not updated anything since then. But very centrally located across from the Train Sentral Station.

And the first in-depth conversation is my colleague Tore Wendleborg, 
H Consul, Republic of Seychelles for Norway. He arrived at the hotel shortly after our check-in. What a great mix of cultures. Rain outside the hotel and we sit talking about warm sunny places..

We had the opportunity to discuss the promotion of spreading the word on the glories of the Seychelles and environs like the brand new Savoy Hotel in Belle Vallon (5 Star). 

The 6,300-m² hotel has 163 rooms, a business conference centre, two restaurants, a beach bar, fitness centre and a spa which has a Russian steam room.

The new resort's biggest attraction is the Seychelles' largest hotel swimming pool with 700 m² of space for immersing the body from the heat of the tropical sun, that's for those who don’t want to walk a few steps onto one of Mahe islands' most popular beaches, Beau Vallon.

Mostly the discussion centered around when we were going back to Seychelles, how our Seychellois were doing in our respective countries and what we could do to help them. Consul Wendelborg has a 20 year affiliation with the Seychelles and a great knowledge of the country.
It was a good meeting and we hope to see him again while we are here.

Our walk to the train station was educational in preparation for our train trip. Consul Wendelborg directed us to the EGON Restaurant for our first hotdog and a beer which cost us 40$ each!!!

OSLO ARRIVAL

Readers:  This our blog.  Follow along by email and check the page at the right called Day by day Trip Report. Here

We made it!

We have arrived in the wrong day and wrong time but have managed to make our way from this gigantic train station via taxi to the hotel.  Well we didn't arrive by train but by bus, tho in the same general area.  Walk from bus to hotel was along cobbled sidewalks and crosswalks with lights that seemed to stay green only 30 seconds.

Hotel is old but serviceable, with a dressed up lobby and rooms that need makeovers.  Before she drifted off to sleep Beth observed:  "we'll be missing this hotel when we have to spend 6 nights in the time ship cabin."

We are only here for a couple of nights, where "here" is the Clarion Royal Christiania Hotel.  Which means we will be living out of the suitcase for a bit.  (Looking ahead to unpacking while on the ship -- stay tuned.)

Met the Norway Consul to the Seychelles.  As Beth is the WA/AZ Consul, she contacted Tore after our arrival time was certain.  He was tall -- of course-- with a gentle and kind way.  Brought us city maps; showed us to way to City Hall where we will meet city tour tomorrow; and accompanied us to the station (picture above) so we could locate track for Bergeb train on Thursday.

Tore suggest a restaurant on the station plaza, Egon, where we retreated after bidding him farewell.  Believe anyone who tells you it's expensive over here.  We each had a bratwurst (long skinny thing hanging over the bun on both ends;  and shared a pitcher of Ringnes beer.  465 nork (Norwegian kroner). 

Translation?  About $80.  Yikes!

We are safe, tired, and still saying to ourselves: " I can't believe we're in Norway""

Keeping it Together!!!!!!!!

We must stay calm, focus, focus, focus. We must not forget a thing!

It's very important that we TAKE OUR MEDICINE!

Keeping calm! 

If the Washington fresh strawberry martini doesn't work,

 then on to the more serious medicine!

This always works!

We are READY!

Release the balloons  and send us off!

Sounds

Can you hear it?  We haven't attached any tunes to the blog, so we will do our best to let you know what you are hearing, the rumblings and stirrings of anticipation and activity.

Zip -- packing and unpacking and packing and unpacking (lost count.) 

Ruffle/Riffle -- maybe shuffle is better as we sort and misplace tickets, transfers, vouchers, tour details, flight info, maps and miscellaneous papers. 

Snoring -- the sound we cannot hear because we are not sleeping; awake with last minute chores and to-do lists. 

Swish -- best I could use as a substitute for the sliding sound of zip lock baggies of all sizes; you know, the air leaving when you squeeze the bag so it takes up less space. 

Crinkle/Crackle -- wrapped items make this noise, granola bars, antiseptic wipes, cedar sachets, and sometimes shoes. 

Slosh slosh -- the collective noise of the collective collection of tiny bottles of toiletries, such as shampoo, hairspray, lotion. 

Clinkle -- a new word to describe the sound that vitamins and aspirin and tums make as they are stuffed into a corner of the bag. 

Clatter/Clang -- all the technology bits and bobs that inhabit the pockets of the laptop carrier or purse; charger, ear buds, another charger, cords, adapters, converters, kindles, macs, camera cord, card reader, thumb drive.  (Another separate suitcase, perhaps?) 

Deep sigh -- the one we'll take and exhale when we are finally seated in the lovely limo which will carry us to airport Monday mid morning.

"Baby, baby, can you hear my heart beat?  You're the trip I love!"  

More Food for personal emergencies...like "I am starving, what do we have to eat?" Right NOW!!!

It is true that travelers do not live by bread alone.  Adventures, if they are life-changing, touch all the senses as well as the heart.

That said, the stomach must be monitored and served.  Which leads me to snacks. Snacks, alias emergency junk food that must be available at all costs and at all times!!!!

• Gum
• Cheese or peanut butter and crackers
• Individual coffee pouches
• Granola bars
• Tuna in a foil bag

Which then leads to lunch bags (are you following the breadcrumbs?  Yuck, yuck, groan.)

Beth bot us fold-up thermal lunch bags.  It's very expensive to eat and drink where we are going. As noted in the earlier post about food, the hotels do not discourage "go bags" from the breakfast buffet.  We will "picnic" on the train from the feedbags we pack before departing the hotel. 

We might just decide to have a picnic in the middle of the night on one of the glorious 24/7 daylight hours we will be enjoying. We could be longing for another "polse and Lompe" (It will take you a while to figure this one out). Remember hot dogs are a "hot" item.

We just can't wait to see the first breakfast buffet and see what we get to put in our new "go bags"!! Photos galore!

FACTOID: Today is Midsummer Night, aka Jónsmessa, in Iceland. According to Icelandic folklore, cows gain the power of speech for the night, and seals can take a human form! Be careful who you talk to!!! 

FOOD...not always "white"

Keeping this one simple.  Food.  Simple title and simple post, tho we expect to have some foods and meals that won't feel simple to us.  

We'll be sampling lots of different foods -- well maybe no lutefisk -- but we hear Norwegian/Icelandic hot dogs called polse are a delicacy.

This is where we'll update you on the yummies and the "don't make me eat that agains."  You'll read reviews of eats and service and establishments.  We also understand that the hotels realize that lunch can be expensive 'out there' so they are ok with guests packing a lunch bag to go.

Expect updates as we eat and drink . . . 

Welcome Subscribers

Hello patient and loyal Readers,

Beth and Becky are working to bring you a daily email which will give you the latest in our travel world.

In the email you can read the latest posts.
In the mail there are THREE places you can click to get to the blog.

• At the top of the email text see "GO to the Blog"
• Right below the title and picture see "Go to the Blog"
• Below the text of the post for the day click on "Read the Blog here"

Hope this gets you "the rest of the story" as Paul Harvey would say.  

PS  Hoping I am not the only one old enough to remember Paul Harvey.  *grins*

871 plus or minus 2

Plus or minus a year or 10.  We've been advised to visit the Settlement Museum in Reykjavik.  I'm sure we'll know more after an actual viewing, but apparently it's a display of an ancient house/village dated in the year 871 plus or minus 2.  To make it more intriguing, it's in the basement of the newest hotel in Reykjavik. 

How do we know this?  Some great Lonely Planet reading?  A PBS travel show?  Nope
Met the talented artist Michaela today. Click on her name and watch her designing a cover for the band; The Whole Bolivian Army. Very cool! She's a FOB and a close friend of an FOB (Linda).  She and her friend traveled to Iceland last winter.  Yes, brrrr.

Other things Michaela shared --

• Fish House -- great restaurant
• The Laundromat -- not for clothes care but for sammiches and breakfast
• The Icelanders grow mostly tomatoes and export them to Europe
• Reykjavik is a small town so it's easy to get around
• Make sure we upgrade at the Blue Lagoon Spa (nice robe, floating massage)
• Don't Google "Iceland Food" 

It's always fun-ner to travel when you can get inside info from an "already been there" traveler.

PS -- If you are following the luggage saga, Beth and I have each packed and unpacked at least 5 times. Another repack on Sunday

The Kitchen Sink

After meeting with Maria today, T minus 11 days, we have added much to two important things --

• The stack of travel docs we must carry around and
• Our confidence about the final details of the journey.

We have docs and passes and tickets and transfers for the following:

• Flybus -- will take us from Oslo airport to hotel.
• Tickets for a tour of Oslo.
• Stockholm passes to see museums and other sites.
• Bus tickets to get from hotel to train station.
• Bus tickets for a ride from hotel to M/S Finnmarken
• Tickets entitling us to the spa experience of a lifetime at Blue Lagoon Spa.
• Tour tickets for the Great Circle Tour while in Reykjavik.
• And surely some other bit of paper that will gain us entry to something or other.

We also got some luggage tags and two little carry bags, a copy of our travel insurance and phone numbers to call if planes are delayed or luggage goes astray. What say you! 

Nobody has yet suggested we also take the kitchen sink. AND what am we going to do with all the luggage we am stacking up?? Everything is popping at the seams!!! Beth has tried and tried but cannot get everything in. She has no place to sleep!!!!

What about Becky's knitting??? Where oh where will she put that????

Naming Rights! or The Right Name if you are in Iceland

Saga's Return via our naming ourselves Icelandic! 

This is the way boys are named in Iceland.....

Girls however, have it better, insert Dad's first name (Beth's Dad, Harry: Becky's Dad, August) and then add...dottir..(so Beth would be Harrydottir and Becky would be Augustdottir). NOT GOING FOR THAT!!!!

Beth prefers...the self selected name Sara Sharpwit. Check the right side of our blog for other delightful Viking names.

Becky will be August-dottir.  Okay I reckon, but over the years I've sorta gotten used to Becky.  Silly story from the past -- sales people and others could not, for some reason, spell "August," my father's first name.  As a result my mother would say "August, like the month."  For many years of my childhood I assumed my dad's name was August-like-the-month.

Prayers to protect us and to encourage us

Prayers and Churches

This is the Norwegian Table Prayer 

passed on to us by my friend Gene Nelson, Sun City West, AZ.


I Jesu navn går vi til bords
å spise, drikke på ditt ord. 
Deg, Gud til ære, oss til gavn, 
Så får vi mat i Jesu navn. 
Amen. 

In Jesus' name to the table we go
To eat and drink according to His word.
To God the honor, us the gain,
So we have food in Jesus' name.
Amen.

Heddal Stave Church The church is a triple nave stave church and is Norway's largest stave church. It was constructed at the beginning of the 13th century.  There is a great legend attached to the church in that it was built in three days.  Lord's Prayer Fader vår, du som er i himmelen! La ditt navn holdes hellig. La ditt rike komme. La din vilje skje på jorden                                                                                            som i himmelen                      Gi oss i dag vårt daglige brød. Forlat oss vår skyld, som vi og forlater våre skyldnere. Led oss ikke inn i fristelse, men frels oss fra det onde For riket er ditt, og makten og æren i evighet. Amen Our Father, who art in heaven, hallowed be thy name. Thy Kingdom come, thy will be done, on earth as it is in heaven. Give us this day our daily bread. Forgive us our trespasses, as we forgive                                                                                         those who trespass against us.  And lead us not into temptation, but deliver us from evil. For thine is the                                                                                      kingdom, power and glory.  Amen.