ON THE ROAD AGAIN - GOODBYE NORWAY - HELLO SWEDEN

Readers:  

To read the adventure in the order of the Day by Day Trip Report click HERE. 
To see MORE photos click HERE.

Hitting the Road.

Up at dawn (since it has been dawn all night.) Remember Midnight sun. We have spent all this week above the Arctic Circle enjoying continuous daylight. Today at 7:30am, we leave Alta and head for Tromso, Oslo and the Glorious Sweden. We said goodbye to Inger and Vikki with a celebratory dinner at the Rica Hotel in Alta. Today and for the rest of the trip we will be on our own while missing them as they have fun in other places.


As we got into the clouds we saw how really beautiful Alta is. Located on the fjord/lake it offers cross-country skiing with beautiful lodges along the way, Gene says it has some of the greatest powder skiing anywhere, and golfer, Anika Sorenstamm.

Lutheran Northern Lights Cathedral

New walking downtown Alta, Norway

Celebrating Stockholm

We have three days and loads of activities to complete. We are in our first Radisson Blu Hotel (Iceland will be also). This hotel is right on the Strand. We overlook the water, boats, and beautiful buildings. Stockholm at first glance is huge. Well we have been in villages of 3K - 6K folks in the High North Norway so any city is going to be overwhelming.

The city has been preserved as there was no bombing during the war (they stayed neutral) and the tops of the buildings are mostly mansard roofs with a French twist. Cobbled stone narrow streets and tiny shops are along the way. The churches are marvelous and soar into the sky. Be prepared for loads of photos.

The Strand

The Strand

The Old Town

The Old Town

We are looking forward to a few hours of dark for sleeping.  The 24/7 daylight is so seductive, tempting you to awaken at 2:15 am for yet another adventure.  We are a bit sleep deprived so tonight's 5 hours between sun down at 10 and sun rise at 4 promise to be hours of delightful serious sleep.

We hope that wherever you are your dreams are sweet and your rest is peaceful.

ON THE ROAD TO ALTA

Readers:  

To read the adventure in the order of the Day by Day Trip Report click HERE. To see MORE photos click HERE.

FYI All is good, we found this on the shelf as we crossed from Finland back to Norway. Just a little touch of home:)

A great location for a picnic on a quiet lake.

So we did and it was great!

FAREWELL TO MAGIC ENGHOLM AND THE DOGS

Today we head north to Alta as our final driving destination. We are sad to be leaving Engholm Lodge and the poochies. However, the dogs are also packing off to move to the lake and enjoy swimming and playing and escaping the mosquitos. 

Vikki having a soft boiled egg held in a raindeer horn eggcup.

This is the workshop of Sven Engholm. Cool huh? He designs and builds all of the pieces that enhance each of the cabins. We wish we knew more about the people responsible for the overall concept, the fabrics, the furniture, etc.

As we leave, we are again reminded that Robert Service had a love of the High North Country. One of our Arizona friends, Gene, sent this comment early today;

"THIS IS ALL i REMEMBER: (It's been 70 some years ago ya know)   

I'm Sam McGee from Tennessee where the cotton blooms and grows

Why I left my home in the South to roam in the North God only knows

It was always cold but the land of gold seems to hold me like a spell

Though I often say in my homey way I'd sooner live in hell."

 The Road to Alta 

Inger drove off toward Kautokeino for about two hours, including a picnic lunch in a Sami park. We ate surrounded by old Sami housing that was not destroyed in the German razing of Finnmarken as they retreated toward Russia.

  In Kautokeino is a large silver artisans' (18 designers) design studio. Now I mean to tell you this is in the middle of nowhere Finnmarken. Here is this beautiful facility with cars parked everywhere (we saw none on the road to there). Marvelous design items, including loads of great silver jewels. Sami Joik singing was being played in the entire facility. Smashing!

We learned earlier that Joik singing is simply tones, no words.  Each Sami child is gifted a personal joik by his/her parents.  Later, the songs are sung as a personal expression, an appreciation of nature, or as a prayer for meditation.  Remember -- no words.

Another two hours with Becky driving us around the mountains, up and down along the river we arrived in Alta where we have checked into the Rica Hotel. We are so grateful for our two drivers, Inger and Becky. Terrific in all ways.

We have a "sort of" view looking out onto the construction site of the Northern Lights Cathedral of Alta. Tomorrow we say a fond farewell to the others, Inger and Vikki, as we split and go our separate ways.

We've learned and shared.  We've laughed and giggled.  We've enjoyed every precious moment.  Vikki was our museum expert in whom we never were disappointed whether is was the Polar Museum in Tromso or the many Sami exhibits. Inger will have a challenge in planning our next trip to Norway -- with every event/location she has offered incredible experiences.  

Gratitude is our attitude.

THE SAMI NATION

Readers:  
To read the adventure in the order of the Day by Day Trip Report click HERE. To see all the Sami photos click HERE.

Dinner in situ

A quick comment about dinner last night! Lamb from some upcountry farm and great veggies. Look closely at the kitchen makeup. Each thing is unique and fun!

L to R:  Vikki, Inger, Becky, Beth

A Bit of Robert Service in Context

Last night we had a bit of Robert Service; "The Call of the Yukon". We had prepared the poem for when we were here but expecting it to be cold and a little more in the mood. However being here at Engholm Lodge is as perfect a location for Robert Service as anywhere. We shall select another one for tonight.

The Squaw Man

The cow-moose comes to water, and the beaver's overbold,
The net is in the eddy of the stream;
The teepee stars the vivid sward with russet, red and gold,
And in the velvet gloom the fire's a-gleam.
The night is ripe with quiet, rich with incense of the pine;
From sanctuary lake I hear the loon;
The peaks are bright against the blue, and drenched with sunset wine,
And like a silver bubble is the moon.
Cloud-high I climbed but yesterday; a hundred miles around
I looked to see a rival fire a-gleam.
As in a crystal lens it lay, a land without a bound,
All lure, and virgin vastitude, and dream.
The great sky soared exultantly, the great earth bared its breast,
All river-veined and patterned with the pine;
The heedless hordes of caribou were streaming to the West,
A land of lustrous mystery -- and mine.

THE DOGS!!!!

Oh My Gosh! This morning after breakfast we had the privilege to help feed the dogs who were just outside the dining room waiting impatiently for us to finish breakfast so they could be fed. There are 58 dogs, all except one are chained. The lead dog goes around keeping all dogs in their place. It is terrific.

This is how we felt this morning as we were eating breakfast with the dogs waiting and howling for their food!

Regular dog house for each dog.

Lead dog with house pet dog waiting for food. They get theirs first!

Below is a video of the dogs in their habitat at Engholm.  Click on the "play" arrow even if you don't see the picture.

The best of the best....the dogs knowing breakfast is on the way.

All the dog names ready to be harnessed. 

Remember these dogs have run some mighty great races.

 Becky volunteered to assist in the doggie breakfast. She was assigned a pooper scooper and a scoop. She then went around scooping poop while the dogs ate and prepared to p... some more!

Becky finished with a "Moods of Norway" design on her jeans and shirt from the dogs paw prints. Both of which had to be washed asap!! What fun fun fun!!!!

The Sami

We are staying in the Sampii area at the Engholm Design Husky Lodge which is right in the middle of where the Sami people live. They have a Parliament of their own but function under the Norwegian government. We visited their Parliament, visited their museums and have learned so much about these indigenous people. They have preserved their culture and language but function well within the Norwegian society. Many Sami still ranch with reindeer and we had a great time taking photos of the reindeer up close.

The Sami Parliament

Two Sami men

The famous white reindeer and the shedding of winter fur.

Our dinner location at the Rica Hotel near the Sami museum. A sod restaurant. 

A meal of reindeer costs about 60$ US.

KARASJOK - ENGHOLM HUSKY DESIGN LODGE

Readers:  
To read the adventure in the order of the Day by Day Trip Report click HERE. To see all the Husky photos click HERE.

Private Driver and Portage

Road trip -- need a car.
Road trip -- need a car for four women and luggage.
Inger and Hertz/Kirkenes have provided:  a VW Passat wagon.  

Great Thon hotel in Kirkenes, great room, great view

Road trip -- car delivered to Thon Hotel and we're off by 10:15 am.  Down the road and thru town to a gas station to buy a map, tho car rental man provided directions in Norwegian to Inger.  We drove thru Finland -- a short cut.  (More later.)

Go this far to a bridge but not over it.  Turn left.  Go to a K-name town and take the road to the right/north.  Go to the second K-name town and find tourist info.   So fun, Vikki insisted we stop at each shop opportunity in Finland to see if there is something for us to purchase. We ended up having a great picnic in Finnland beside a great lake.

Nothing until we found a grocery where we loaded up on snacks. Vikki got some of the great dark chocolate with pear and almond, Karl Fraser.

 Inger called our lodging place and after another couple of "go here's" and "turn there's" we are at 

Engholm Husky Lodge

Here's the link so you can learn more.  Here.

You will see that everything is natural -- floors, shelves, brackets, sink, even the shower mat is inlaid stone.  Furniture made from logs, sod on the roof, bear skin on the wall, mink hanging in the corner, fish eagle feather lamp.  This is how the northwest should look! Luscious, luscious, luscious. We are in awe of the talent and the design.  We met Sven Engholm who is an 11 times winner of Europe's longest sled dog race, the "Finnmarksløpet - 1000 km.-- and his husky dogs. Sven completed the Iditarod 4 times in 1996-1999, once finishing in the top ten!

The home of Willis/Bianco, and on the other side Jacobsen/Kingslien

Dinner here tonight.  Probably a walk to the Karasjok River if the elephant-sized mosquitos are forgiving. The folks here don't swim, they jump in the river for a dip!!! Usually mornings...tomorrow we shall join them! 

Our bedroom

Our Kitchen

Becky and Inger toasting the beautiful site

Wait until we tell you about the  dogs.

KING CRAB AND MORE KING CRAB

Readers:  
To read the adventure in the order of the Day by Day Trip Report click HERE. To see all the photos for King Crab click HERE.

The King of Crabs

After saying good bye to the team of terrific's on the M/S Finnmarken, we entered Kirkenes, the border town with Russia and Finland and in the land of the Midnight Sun.

Checked quickly into our first Thon hotel.......VERY MODERN, LARGE ROOMS, GREAT WIFI, WHITE, CLEAN, LARGE. This is creating a large dose of happiness, relaxing happiness.  We had adjusted to our tiny cabin aboard ship but . . . now we find ourselves in a relative mansion.  Life is good.

We had just a bit of time to get registered, walk about town and have a cuppa. We head off to the adventure of the day.... thanks to Inger, we go
Crabbing for King Crabs!

We put these goofy suits on to keep us warm and we jump into this 20'-25' boat with 11 other folks, plus our crew of three. 

Now, today is cloudy, windy, damp and really northwest-like. As the boat sped through the water, spray would come up and coat the riders. We stopped in the harbor at two of the giant crab pots and with electric wenches the crew pulled up the pot and proceeded to toss back the biggest ones (including all females) we have ever seen and kept the giant mondo ones. They said we could eat about 3/4 king crab each. They cut off the legs and tossed the bodies back into the sea.

A wild boat ride down the fjord leads us to the Crab Camp which is on the border with Russia. We enjoy a fabulous dinner of King Crab sitting outdoors under shelter while being observed from a distance by Russian and Norwegian Border Guards. Our guide had many exciting stories to share.

The border between Russia and Norway (also Russia and Finnland) is very tightly controlled.  There is a formal crossing place where Norwegians go to Russia to buy cheap booze and buy back -- at a much cheaper price -- the gasoline they sold the Russians.  The new Russian middle class cross into Norway and Finnland to spend their newly acquired wealth on "stuff."

The shorn hillside between the posts (yellow for Norway and red/green for Russia) is jointly maintained by crews of border guards from each country.  We were advised not to encroach even a tiny centimeter into the Russian side.  Even extending our arms with camera to take a picture could be misconstrued as a violation.  Story:  one woman committed such a violation and, as a result, paid a very large fine and was detained several hours, missing her cruise ship connection.

Lots of Russian language in Kirkenes due to the residence of the Russian allies at the end of WWII.  Kirkenes was occupied by the Germans, bombed by the Russians, and then re-civilized by Norwegians, Finns, and Russians after the defeated Germans fled.

It was a great day and having King Crab again was loads of fun......

TOPPING OFF NORWAY - NORTH CAPE

Readers:  
To read the adventure in the order of the Day by Day Trip Report click HERE. To see all the photos for the day click HERE.

AS FAR NORTH IN EUROPE AS YOU CAN GO

Oh my, but this excursion was magnificent.  The North Cape is the furthest distance north you can go and still be in Europe (71 degrees 10 minutes north of the Equator). It has been said, "You are standing at the edge of the world. This is where the world ends."

At the gift shop (even the Top of the World has a gift shop!) we were able to post cards which will bear the postmark of Nordkapp (North Cape.)  We watched a brief film, beautifully done, which showed the promontory area thru all four seasons.  We are here during the Midnight Sun season which begins in May. The film -- almost an IMAX -- had fabulous shots of the Northern Lights, reindeer, flowers, snow, mountains, and snow plows.

We had a great lunch/picnic looking toward Russia/Finnland and out into the Barents Sea.

It has been so very warm...we cannot believe that we have to keep taking off layers of clothing...we are all getting a little tan. Our message from Birger is that Norway experienced 32 heat records today. Aelsund was 93 degrees today which was a record. 

5000 Reindeer dotted the barren landscape on the way to North Cape. We stopped and viewed a SAMI family with a closeup of their reindeer.

This was a most exciting day, the sun shining and clear blue skies, the fact that we are as far as we can go and that we have been here. 

TROTTING AROUND TRONSØ, THE PARIS OF THE NORTH

Inger suggested we do two things, and both ideas were excellent.  First we did some tromping around Tromso.  We got off the ship for a few hours to enjoy Tronsø which is the largest town in the High North and third largest in Norway. Lovely little fishing village with a beautiful white very modern church called The Arctic Church. We walked the village, made plans, did a little bit of shopping, more plans, had a coffee, enjoyed the sun, made more plans.

(Shopping inventory:  Becky bot yarn!  Inger got a great shirt!)

We end our trip on the Hurtigruten as we enter the Harbor toward Kirkenes in the High North Country. It was a terrific trip with special moments that we hope you could share with us. 
We stayed up until midnight to share the "Midnight Sun". 
Wait until the "rest of the story"!