THE TROLLS OF TROLLFJORD

Readers:  
To read the adventure in the order of the Day by Day Trip Report click HERE. To see all the photos for Trollfjord click HERE.

Midnight Sun

A day of days. We cross the Arctic Circle, have all kinds of celebrations and historical infomercials for the fantastic arctic explorations by the Norwegians.

Loads of geographical photos that show the change in the topography of the landscapes. NO MORE TREES, MORE JAGGED MOUNTAINS, barren except for bits of green that looks a lot like our NW moss.

It is 11:00 pm and still daylight as we head for the Trollfjord. The skinny skinny skinny inlet that makes Princess Louisa Inlet look like  Commencement Bay.

We could not touch the sides but it was mighty close. It is midnight, clear, calm and stunningly beautiful. The water is light green, clear, and you can see down into it for miles(sorta). The waterfall was a true topper.

Inger was busy taking photos left and right. Hi Birger!

Even if you haven't looked at other pix, don't miss these.  

Here for Trollfjord pix.

FACTOID: Trolls sleep for 1,000 years after their midday nap and before they start throwing stones at the ship!

THE CIRCLE.....THE ARCTIC CIRCLE THAT IS.....

Readers:  
To read the adventure in the order of the Day by Day Trip Report click HERE. To see all the photos for the day click HERE.

And What do My Wandering Eyes Perceive?

"The weather is having difficulty deciding whether to go all for proper winter or just to stick to being antisocially cold." said Anita in  the book, MEET ME IN MALMO.

After a beautiful day in Trondheim yesterday in the mid 70's...today dawns (barely at 5:00am) foggy, gray, dank, rainy, typical marine morning. We just left Nesna, Norway and are heading for the "CROSSING"! 

We hear some announcement on the speaker but can't understand it so we rush to the "camp" in anticipation. We realize that we have an hour or so more before we hit the "CROSSING"! This photo is our "Northern Lights" or as close as we can get.....

As we get closer, the fog begins to lift and the sun filters into our view.....at 7.11.40 the MS Finnmarken hits the mark!!! How do we know???? As we look out the window, we see a "globe" built on a small island, Vikingen. 
66DEG 33MIM. From now on we will belong to the same family as 400,000 of Norway's citizen who are members of the world's northernmost civilization. 

CLICK FOR ADDITIONAL PHOTOS OF THE ARCTIC CIRCLE

We hit Bodo right at noon, the sun is shinning and shirt sleeves are  shortening. We stood by the railing as we entered Bodo looking for Inger and Vikki. There they were standing with their suitcases waiting and waving.

Very easy entry for them and quick check-in. Their room is just down the hall from ours and we will be sharing a table of 4 for dinner each night. We are so happy they have finally joined us and all our separate journeys have merged into the fairy tale Birger(Inger’s husband) has suggested.

L to R:  Vikki, Beth, Inger, Becky

 The weather has perked up, the sun is shinning, most of the Europeans are sitting in the sun taking naps....temperature low 70's. We have to rest up, for tonight we meet the trolls at midnight in the daylight!!

VIKING TRADERS OF TRONDHEIM

Readers:  Another post in our activity.  
To read the adventure in the order of the Day by Day Trip Report click HERE. To see all the photos for the day click HERE.

THE M/S FINNMARKEN

We have had the chance to review this ferry. We have found it lacking in nothing. The ship is quiet even no engine noise, clean and has not shown major issues in docking or departures. The food is excellent, the staff are responsive, the maps are accurate, the access to public facilities frequent AND where they should be. Our room was clean by the time breakfast was over, the decor up to date and appropriate, the views are dramatic, the lounge chairs comfortable and plentiful. Truly we have nothing to suggest for improvement. 

The calm seas have soothed us and lulled us into relaxing.

Trondheim

We arrived in Trondheim shortly after breakfast with the sun shining. 

YAY YAY the sun is shinning!! This, friends, is the birth home of our friend Andreas Udbye of University Place, WA fame. After being here we know he is descendent of Vikings and a trader from birth. Lovely, lovely town Andreas.

Our friends, Vikki, Inger and Birger will be waiting for us. YAY YAY!!! 

* * * 

They were waiting for us....We saw them waving and walking down the street towards us!!!!  After loads of hugs, Birger whisked us off to the Nidaros Cathedral giving us the history of the church and of Trondheim. The cathedral is marvelous and has a great history! 

(Another great positive about the ship/crew:  going ashore is simple and painless.  They capture our departure by reading the bar code on our ship card as we exit, and again as we re-board after being with friends.)

The following link has an excellent history and amazing photos of the cathedral and of Trondheim;

Trondheim Cathedral

Birger gave us a walking tour from the Cathedral across the Town Bridge to the OLD TOWN showing us the bicycle elevator....you set your bike to a groove in the road, push a button and the bike with you on it sails up the hill. WOWSER!

We stopped for coffee in a kaffehus called Dromedar (dromedary camel) for a relaxing visit until time for us to walk back to the car and back to the ferry.

We had to be back on the Hurley Gurley Ferry by 11:30am so Birger drove us directly to the ferry dock. Very limited security. They all got out and joined us at the ship...then after we got on we realized that folks can come on board for coffee or a visit. 

Birger, Vikki, Inger, Beth, Becky

FACTOID: The first ever export of American goods to Europe took place in Trondheim around 1000 AD.

The ship passed the oh, so famous Kjeungskjaer Lighthouse about 2 pm today. It was built in 1987 and protected in 2000.  No details on "protection."

Tomorrow about noon, Vikki and Inger will join us on the M/S Finnmarken.  More adventures await as we chat/laugh/share our way north.

Tomorrow morning we cross the ARCTIC CIRCLE!!!! Tomorrow we will also discover if either Beth or Becky entered the exact time at which the ship is expected to cross the Arctic Circle.  There will be activities all day to celebrate that we are "north" people.  Stay tuned.

GEIRANGER FJORD; PEARL OF THE WEST COUNTRY FJORDS

Readers:  Another post in our activity.  
To read the adventure in the order of the Day by Day Trip Report click HERE. To see all the photos for the day click HERE.

GEIRANGER FJORD

Sunday afternoon, July 6, 2014 

On a dark and dreary day, we entered the Geiranger Fjord early and had the chance to see the fog part on the calm water as we slowly traversed the fjord. The further in we went, the higher the waterfalls and the closer the hills. Finally snow on the mountain tops with explosions of quiet beauty.

The little villages are built on the lower edge of the fjord.

Some little farms are built far above on the mountain side. One little story was about the tax collector who had difficulties delivering his demands as the pathways were so steep that ladders had to be installed. When the farmers heard the tax collector was on his way, the ladders would suddenly disappear “for repairs” and the collector would not be able to visit the farmer.

As we head back to Alesund we are reminded that thanks to the Gulf Stream, 4.5 million people live in Norway. The fjords do not freeze in winter but continue to have the marine fog, cold, dank air year round as the temperature fluctuates with the seasons. The photos speak more than our words could possibly describe.

Tomorrow is Day 3 of the M/S Finnmarken cruise.  We have been told the day is Monday but we really have lost track of things like that.

Tomorrow is special because we will see Vikki, Inger and Birger in Trondheim.  The Jacobsens have lived in Trondheim and you know there's no better way to see a city that thru the eyes of one of its citizens.  Cannot wait.  

ANCHORS AWEIGH........

Readers:  Another post in our activity.  
To read the adventure in the order of the Day by Day Trip Report click HERE. To see all the photos for the day click HERE.

Heading North

Saturday, July 5, 2014

Processing through boarding can be oppressive. Lines and "pushy" peoples.

We processed quickly through both, staring down those who felt the need to "push" and praised the ferry staff who were efficient.

The ferry looks and acts like an organized cruise ship..."Norwegian style". It is still raining and the ferry feels SOLID holding its own. 

Our room is small yes, but plenty of space for tucking and storing. Dinner buffet is at 6:00pm the first night to get us organized and introduced to the system. We purchased a "coffee anytime card" and a "bottled water 2x's a day card" ($100.00 for both). 

We have assigned seating at dinner. The B's are at table of four in the best view area (#78). We have already made arrangements for Vikki and Inger (VI) to sit with us once they board at Bodo later in the week.

A tour of the ferry has provided us with one of the potential "MNA Camps", Level Eight deck with comfortable chairs facing forward looking out toward the direction we are heading. We took our coffee and found our best spot so far. We watched the departure from lovely Bergen and into the Norwegian Sea, the route of the Vikings.

 And then enjoyed seeing all the islands with quaint homes as we headed out of the harbor to the Norwegian sea. 

FACTOID: As we start we are as far west as Amsterdam and Marseilles 

however, in 5 days we will be at Vardø which is the same eastern longitude as St Petersburg and Istanbul.

A 9:00pm briefing in English gave us more information and by then our "tent poles" were sagging. We returned to our room, a very brief beginning for unpacking and popped into our beds. 

 Tomorrow, she be another day!

Sunday, July 6, 2014

MS Finnmarken

Our first port of call Florø will be at 2:00am, which we will sleep through we hope. (we didn't). We did sleep through Måløy and awakened at Torvik. 

By the end of breakfast we were in Ålesund, with the rain slacking. We are here for only 30 minutes so will stay on board. Lovely town! This is the home of Inger and Birger who are on travel with Vikki driving to meet us in Trondheim.

FACTOID: Ålesund has approximately 260,000 inhabitants with newspaper circulation of 130,000.

The path narrows as we head toward the UNESCO site Geiranger Fjord. 

Tomorrow Friends tomorrow. 

EMBARCATION ON THE "HURLEY GURLEY'

Readers:  Another post in our activity.  To read the adventure in the order of the Day by Day Trip Report click HERE. To see all the photos click HERE

FEETS ON LAND....take advantage while your feets are still on land.

It's still raining and we have plenty to do today. We have not finished our viewing of Bergen, museums, and a return to the fish market. We have groceries to purchase..so we gotta hit the road before there is no road.

A FOND FAREWELL ....TO:  wifi, walking, shopping, restaurants, blogging, emails, texting, exploring, large rooms, large bathrooms, large any rooms, hotel staff, room service, morning coffee, clothes hangers, closet space, desks, land lottsa land.

Heads up: As we leave the hotel to board the M/S Finnmarken around 5:00pm, we may have problems with wifi access on board. Certainly we will not have access while on water and uncertain what will happen when we are in port. Be prepared for sporadic reports until we get settled and can access wifi. Also, when we off board, we will be in the far North of Norway in Kirkenes. Who knows what kind of service we will be getting. Therefore, below is the map of Norway and our stops. Becky has identified a link as to where the 

M/S Finnmarken (name of our ferry) will be at any time.

Click the name of the ship to see the interactive map of the ship's location/route.

M/S Finnmarken

Shopping in the rain

Fish market reprise -- this time to decide what to have for lunch.  We were offered tastings of many things, including whale meat!  For lunch we decided on another baguette with smoked salmon and while eating met a family from San Francisco.  Pouring rain, pouring off the edges of the tents covering the picnic tables.

A great looking food truck with no one patronizing during the marine rain!

Hanseatic Museum -- the 1702 building where the various officials managed trade among the Hanseatic states (there was no unified Germany and probably the Dutch ruled Norway and Sweden.)  Very cool cooperative idea among peoples with unique offerings to their 'global' region:  salt, fish (and these two go together for sure); grains; life stuffs such as fabric.  The officials in the Bergen building lived there and were locked in at night.  Coolest thing to see (not enuf light for a picture) was the lavabo on each floor: a hanging teakettle over a brass bowl, with a roll towel on the wall nearby.  Downpour when exiting the museum.

Wharf -- sailing boats, industrial ships, a view of our hotel.  Driving rain, sharp and chilling.

Groceries -- "just around there."  We have decided that hotel clerks need to be much clearer in their pointing and words.  "There" was twice to the right and down a street on the right.  Found cheese (second trip) and crackers and olives and some chocolates.  Mistake -- chocolates we thought were filled with nuts were actually marshmallows and shaped like gummy bears.  Stuck the grocery bag under my coat to keep things dry -- steady rain, not letting up.

Seagull watching -- back in the hotel lobby waiting for transport to "Hurley Gurley" Ferry we dried out a bit, discovered the mistake in chocolate purchase, and watched a seagull feasting on mussels scarfed from the piers just outside the window.

Of course the rain has stopped.  We are ready for the ship.

Remember, we may not have wifi so, as the astronauts said when circling the moon: "We'll see you on the other side."

BERGEN, A CITY OF BEAUTY

Readers:  another post in our activity.  To read the adventure in the order of the events click HERE for the Day by Day Trip Report. To see all the photos go HERE

 HAPPY FOURTH OF JULY !!!!!

You Should Say........Yes

Another hotel with a towel each, shampoo in a giant bottle, no floor mat AND to top it off, the ice bucket was folded cardboard........OMG! Bergen Admiral Hotel. A lovely room and a great location but PLEASE!

Bergen is the sister city of Seattle as I was reminded by our Washington Consular Association leader, HConsul Kim Nesselquist (Norway). Bergen itself is a jewel of Norway, and makes a wonderful base for exploring the nearby Hardangerfjord and Sognefjord. Bergen’s famous Hanseatic wharf, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is great for walks along the picturesque city harbour before taking lunch at the Bergen Fish Market. This is really a lovely lovely town. Each street produces more and more precious views of such great homes.

This year Bergen will host the Tall Ships Race in late July, an event that is expected to draw nearly half a million visitors, along with ships and crews from over 30 countries.

We were up and attem' by noon today...Becky for a great haircut! When Nina the stylist asked whether she wanted bangs, Becky asked, "What should I say?"  Nina: You should say....Yes!  She changed her mind as you can see below.

We had our almost daily hot dog. The best yet! 

And found out how to make perfect hot dogs!!!

hot dog shop -- at least 9 varieties, including chorizo; we chose bratwurst

 Just under $200.00

We found the self-annointed "Best Norwegian Fast Food" shop -- Sostrerie Hagelin.  There we bot a 9 nok fish cake, about $1.50 US.  It looked like a dollar-size pancake, maybe a bit bigger.  it was gelatinous and chewy and very hot.  And white!  We shared it and continued our stroll.

We wandered through the Fish market planning our purchases for tomorrow (the ship), purchased a smoked salmon roll for tonight's dinner! Yummy!

crab shells stuffed with crab salad

AND we even had the chance to see a marching band parade by.....

these are the soldiers that followed the band

Tomorrow we do our Ferry shopping, our repacking, and board in late afternoon. Don't forget we will not have easy access to wifi so we will post when we can! Hope you had a great celebration and the fireworks were terrific!

This photo does true justice to the beauty of the Northwest....great holiday...great weather....paradise...we could be homesick but the gray skies and light rain we are having in Bergen is so normal....

Mt Rainier from KOMO news.

FACTOID: Bananas were first introduced to Norway in 1905.

THE BERGEN TRAIN-- ACROSS THE ROOF OF NORWAY

Readers:  another post in our activity.  To read the adventure in the order of the events click HERE for the Day by Day Trip Report. To see all the photos go HERE

"This is Norway"

We hear this from hotel clerks, gift shop clerks, Norwegians we meet:  "This is Norway."  Translation:  It's expensive here.  We've paid too much for hot dogs and too much for a diet coke and too much for a bottle of water.  But "this is Norway."

Dinner on 7/2 was 'en suite.'  Room service was not an option due to expense and we'd walked ourselves silly on the city tour, so we spread out the goodies we had carried from home. We added some items left over from the lunch we'd made from the breakfast buffet and had ourselves a nice little picnic.  

Trains and Boats and Busses and Trains and Automobiles

Consistently hailed as one of the world’s most scenic railway journeys, Norway’s Bergensbanen (Bergen Railway) certainly doesn’t disappoint. Over the roughly seven hour trip, we have experienced some of Norway’s most majestic landscapes. From the awe-inspiring fjords to the mountainous terrain blanketed in snow, the train journey from Oslo to Bergen is one that everyone should experience in their lifetime. Do you see that we said SEVEN HOURS well....after almost 12 HOURS we stumbled into Bergen.

"Norway in a Nutshell" is full of nuts, and trains and boats and busses and more trains!!!

At 8:00am this morning, we hit Oslo Sentral Station to follow the trail across Norway to the mighty fjords.......through long dark tunnels and bridges and past loads of places that we were sure the trolls lived.

Thanks to Consul Wendleborg we knew which track and coach to pop on. We were well prepared. AND please take note...this is the very first time Beth has EVER EVER EVER put a back pack on her back! She whined and complained all the while!

We were on our way in a flash, loaded with wifi, great lunch prepared by us from the hotel. Ready for the great adventure.

The scenery was spectacular and became more and more outstanding as we headed into the fjords. At Myrdal, we changed trains and headed to Flam. Up, up, up, up, up we went with the topography changing becoming more and more barren and beautiful as the snow covered mountains got closer. 

It became colder and colder. The fjord water became floating ice. The cloud cover went from fluffy to gray and leaden and heavy.  From 20 degrees Celsius it dropped to 8 degrees C. Everyone was digging out their jackets, gloves and hats. 
By the time we climbed up to Flam, it was sleeting, bleak, gray and dreary and stunningly beautiful.

Once in Flam, we hopped another train and headed down the mountains, passing beautiful waterfalls, deep fiords, small villages and breathtaking scenery.  We saw many hikers, and found these bikes obviously used on sunny days as the weather warms.

                      We were happy to be safe and sound and warm on board the train.

Fortunately Becky found a porter service that was able to take our bags from Olso to Bergen so we did not have to lug the suitcases as well as a back pak. We were sure we would have a total collapse. Much better to sit back and enjoy the ride...

The steep decent from Flan allowed us to view amazing scenery with waterfalls and rivers  exploding with the winter snow melt.

Once down into the fjords, we boarded a small car ferry and had a two hour ride down a UNESCO fjord. Breathtaking in its beauty.

When the ferry docked us after the wonderful viewing, we boarded a bus to Voss. We drove down winding little roads to the bottom of the valley and back up again. Again, more and more beautiful views.

Once in Voss we boarded another train heading two hours toward Bergen. As you can imagine, we were totally exhausted by this time and took naps as we left the fjords and headed toward the city. A taxi to the hotel....showers, en suite eating and hopping into bed. TIRED TIRED TIRED and overwhelmed by the beauty we enjoyed all day!

Ski jumps! If you recall we visited the famous Olso ski jump on the city view. On the trains today we saw many ski jumps in the forests as we went by. It could be that Norwegians were not only born on ski's but were meant to fly. this short story below is from my friend Gene (a Swede, but trustworthy). 

A story re Norway: two ski jumpers stole a small fishing boat during the Nazi occupation and rowed across the North Sea to Great Briton. From there they were transported to the US where they ended up in St. Paul, Minn. to make a public appearance at the annual Winter Carnival ski jump. My dad, a carnival official was assigned to see to their care while in town. They both made several jumps, two each in competition..They were true hero's of the war and traveled through much of the US promoting War Bond sales.

Tomorrow, Fourth of July!!!!! Have the best of celebrations of our country's expression of Freedom and Independence. We brought our shirts and celebratory accoutrements which we will wear proudly.